| Welcome to the adventure of the truffle season. Italy’s
seasons are rich with every conceivable form of entertainment
which ranges from the simple to the exotic but also the
most memorable. I had the most wonderful experience which
I want to share with you. It was a crisp and cold morning
and we set off with a group of students to a place called
Montaione near San Miniato. We arrived at a ‘fattoria’
with their authentic Chianina cows. That’s where
we met our guides who were proficient hunters. We were
all excited and could not wait to seek our treasure. Yes,
if you have already guessed it, we were on a truffle hunt!
From
the fattoria we walked into the dark, green and inviting
forest with the trifolau, the truffle hunter and his
alert, Lagotto Romagnolo, which is trained to look for
truffles. As a very unusual species, this breed has
a natural flair for searching for truffles being a Romagna
water dog or Truffle dog. With a keen sense of smell,
the lagotto is a friendly dog, having been trained only
to search for truffles that help it to focus only on
this objective and not be distracted by the smell of
game and other animals of the woods. Its body hair is
thick and woolly which is not only water proof but so
thick that the thorns of the undergrowth in the forest
cannot deter this rare dog into diving in to dense shrubbery
to find the treasure of truffles. In order to prevent
it from eating the truffle, the lagotto is invariably
rewarded with his favorite tidbit which he is quite
content with!
Well,
you must be familiar with truffles, but let me tell
you about them anyway. The damp months of October, November
and December are ideal for the growth of truffles. There
are white, black, brown and red truffles amongst which
the white are the tastiest. They range from the size
of a walnut to that of an apple and are potato-like,
round and irregular with a rough or smooth skin. They
are mostly found in France, Italy, Croatia and Slovenia.
But you can also find them in the United States in Washington
and Oregon. These truffles sprout mysteriously under
the dank undergrowth of the roots under especially the
oak, the elm tree, chestnut, pine tree and willow tree.
You will wonder why the truffles are found only under
these types of trees. Let me explain what makes the
truffle so important. There is a fungus called the ectomycorrhizal
fungus which forms a symbiotic relationship that grows
as a sheath around the root tip of the plant. The fungus
grows into a Hartig Net which is a fungal cell growth
that gets into the root of the plant or tree. The fungus
gets the necessary carbon and organic substances from
the tree and in turn the tree or plant acquires water,
mineral salts and metabolites from this fungal growth.
It also prevents parasites and other pathogens from
invading the plant structure. This is very important
in forest management and the maintenance of the flora
and fauna. Another interesting fact is that if you do
find a truffle under or near a tree, you can be sure
to find more in the same area! Usually truffles are
found in a warm and moist soil. They are invariably
searched for after about of 2 weeks of heavy rain. Another
clue is to search and find umbrella shaped mushrooms
which come up after the continuous rain. When these
mushrooms start wilting, then this is the time to look
for truffles.
Coming
back to our treasure hunt, the truffle hunter started
calling orders to his truffle dog and as it went sniffing
around, we hung around in anticipation in the dark green
atmosphere of the forest. Sure enough after about 30
minutes, the dog started digging furiously. The truffle
hunter rushed to that spot and pushed it away and started
digging with the help of a short spade while clearing
the area with his free hand in order not to break the
structure of the truffle. He held the truffle aloft
in triumph and the air around was filled with the pungent
odor. The taste of the truffle is often compared to
that of garlic infused with an earthy mushroom-like
flavor. But no-one divulges the secret hide-outs of
the truffles, as it is supreme in taste but ranks as
the most sought-after ingredient. In olden days, truffle
hunters used pigs to nose out the truffles but could
not control them, so they trained the Lagotto Romagnolo
breed as an ideal substitute.
Truffles
are found in March and are termed as ‘Marzolini’
and also during the summer months. But the elusive truffle
makes its appearance from June to April. The summer
truffles come on in early June, while the white diamond
of Italy, the white truffle, sprouts from September
to December. During the late spring season, the bianchetti
truffle, a milder version of the white one is found
throughout the Tuscany region. The story of the truffle
is sprinkled with myths and legends that are as interesting
and zesty as the truffle itself. The truffle hunters
do not boast about their find, but pretend to come back
empty handed! Another story goes that they follow the
path of the moon and swear that the waxing moon period
is the best for bringing out the scent of the truffle.
The truffle hunters venture out even during stormy days
when the lightning streaks across, which they say is
the best time for the spores to grow. They have photographic
memories which help them to retain the exact location
of the truffle beds. They are very close with their
dogs which they take with them on their forages, which
is almost every day.
As we walked on into the depths of the forest and in
a picturesque setting with a little stream meandering
close by, we found our first big treasure truffle. We
were spurred on to search for more and we found three
smaller truffles! We were so happy and thrilled with
our rewarding treasure hunt as we weighed our find at
our cooking class and found to our delight that we had
close to 100 grams of Italy’s white diamonds!
We could not wait to sample our most expensive delicacy.
Did you know that truffles can be served cooked or uncooked
and just shaved onto pasta, omelets and mixed or used
as toppings on salads? They can also be served with
light sauces, fondue or on pizzas. Some even swear by
truffle ice cream! But whichever way the truffle is
served, it is one of the most rare and expensive commodity
ranging from 1500 euro and higher per kilogram making
our truffle worth about 75 euro. Winter black truffles
sell for $300-$500 U.S. dollars per pound or .45 kg.
But the most important fact is that a lot of mushrooms
look just like a truffle but are very poisonous. It
is imperative that you should not go on a truffle hunt
with amateurs, but seek the guidance of a skilled truffle
hunter or food expert.
There
is a lot of information on truffles that come in really
useful. It is important for you to know that there are
laws that concern truffles as a commercial product.
All truffle collectors are tested and licensed by the
Italian government. There are co-operatives among land
owners which control truffle hunting. Unless you belong
to this co-operative you can be arrested for trespassing
or collecting truffles from their natural habitat. You
will be surprised to know that truffle spores are dispersed
by small animals. Squirrels, rodents and chipmunks constantly
dig around and come across these truffles and naturally
disperse their spores to other places. When you go hunting
for truffles, make sure you look only for fresh pits
which are not filled with dead leaves and debris. Carry
a rake with a shorter handle to remove dead leaves as
sometimes you have to dig into the soil to a depth of
three to four inches. Remember to bring a paper bag
to carry home the spoils of victory and make notes about
the kind of environment that you can normally find truffles
in. This will help when jot down points that can come
in useful the next time you go on a white diamond hunt.
Also remember not to store truffles in plastic bags
as it gets slimy and not ideal to consume.
Now come with us to our Good
Tastes of Tuscany Cooking Class and enjoy
the most delicious recipe specially prepared by our
expert chefs. You will have a hands-on experience that
takes the taste buds on a culinary journey and you can
taste our exotic Risotto al Tartufo with the most expensive
ingredient unearthed by our truffle hunting expedition.
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